Urban streetwear
Tommy Hilfiger was one of
the most prominent brand in 1990s sportswear, though Polo Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Nautica,
and DKNY were also popular. When Snoop Doggy Dogg wore a Hilfiger sweatshirt during an appearance on Saturday Night Live,
it sold out of New York City stores the next day. Hilfiger's popularity was due
to its perceived waspiness,
which made it seem exclusive and aspirational. Moreover, Hilfiger courted the
new hip hop market: black models featured prominently in the company's
advertising campaigns, and rappers like Puffy and Coolio walked during its runways shows.
Karl Kani was the first to set the trend of merging hip hop with fashion. By combining
his two passions Karl started a whole new fashion movement and many designers
followed in his footsteps. Growing up Karl Kani wondered " Can I do it?
Can I become the Ralph Lauren of the streets? Karl didn't have the answer for
all these questions but it did provide the basis for his new name, Kani, a
variation on "Can I?". With a stylish "K" replacing the
"C" in his first name, he ventured his own optimistic reply, Karl
Kani.
Other brands, such as Nike, Jordn, FUBU,
Reebok Pro-Keds, Adidas, Ecko Unlimited, Mecca USA, Lugz, Rocawear, harputs by Gus Harput, Boss Jeans by IG Design,
and Enyce,
arose to capitalize on the market for urban streetwear.
One sportswear
trend that emerged was the rise in popularity of throwback jerseys,
such as those produced by Mitchell & Ness.
Sports jerseys have always been popular in hip-hop fashion, as evidenced by Will Smith's
early 90s video "Summertime",
and Spike Lee wearing a throwback Brooklyn Dodgers jersey in the film "Do The Right Thing". The late 90s saw the rise in popularity of very expensive throwbacks,
often costing hundreds of dollars. Hip-hop artists donning the pricey jerseys
in music videos led to increased demand, and led to the rise of counterfeiters
flooding the market with fake jerseys to capitalize on the craze. The
mid-to-late 2000s saw a decrease in popularity of throwbacks, with some hip-hop
artists even shunning the raiments. In 1990 it was very big part for fashion
because of all the hip hop artists that wore the various throwback jerseys.
The
"hip-pop" era also saw the split between male and female hip hop
fashion, which had previously been more or less similar. Women in hip hop had
emulated the male tough-guy fashions such as baggy pants,
"Loc" sunglasses, tough looks and heavy workboots; many, such as Da Brat,
accomplished this with little more than some lip gloss and a bit of make-up to
make the industrial work pants and work boots feminine. The female performers
who completely turned the tide such as Lil' Kim and Foxy Brown popularized glamorous, high-fashion feminine hip hop styles, such as Kimora Lee Simmons fashion line of Baby Phat.
While Lauryn Hill and Eve popularized more conservative styles that still maintained both a distinctly
feminine and distinctly hip hop feel.
Bling
In the mid to late 1990s, platinum replaced
gold as the metal of choice in hip hop fashion. Artists and fans alike wore
platinum (or silver)
jewelry, often embedded with diamonds. Juvenile,
and The Hot Boys were largely responsible for this trend.Platinum fronts also became popular; Cash Money Records executive/rapper Brian "Baby" Williams has an entire mouthful of permanent
platinum teeth. Others have fashioned grills,
removable metal jewelled teeth coverings. With the advent of the Jewellery
culture, the turn of the century established luxury brands made inroads into
the hip hop market, with brands like Gucci, Louis Vuitton and 212 Diamond City making appearances in hip hop videos and films.
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